Adding to why it has to be reachable: when a local user follows someone on another server, that server pushes new posts to your server’s inbox, so the remote side has to be able to resolve your domain and connect over HTTPS. A LAN-only box can’t receive that.

The least painful compromise is a cheap domain (or a subdomain you control) plus a tunnel or a small VPS acting as reverse proxy, so nothing on your home network is exposed directly. Then close signups so only your household can register. If Mastodon feels heavy for a handful of users, GoToSocial is much lighter on RAM for that use case, though you’d use a separate client app with it.

One thing to decide up front: the domain is baked into every account and can’t be changed later without starting over.

For anyone with an HD 7000 / R9 200-era card or an old GCN APU sitting in a drawer: the move to amdgpu as the default for GCN 1.0/1.1 means you get RADV Vulkan, so DXVK/Proton games that simply wouldn’t start on the old radeon driver now have a chance. If you’re on an older kernel or a distro that still binds radeon, lspci -k shows which kernel driver the card is actually using.

Nice to see the talk also cover how he moved from Mesa into kernel work, that part is useful for anyone thinking about contributing.

A few things that might save the next attempt, whichever distro you land on:

Audio: USB DACs on PipeWire usually work, but sometimes they aren’t picked as the default output or end up on an “Off”/“Pro Audio” profile. wpctl status shows whether the D3 is listed under Sinks, and wpctl set-default <id> makes it the default. If it isn’t listed at all, aplay -l tells you whether the kernel sees it. pavucontrol’s Configuration tab is the easiest place to switch the profile to plain stereo output.

4K120: the 2060 Super only has HDMI 2.0, which is why you need 4:2:0 for 4K120 on the C1 in the first place. A common workaround is an active DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 adapter on the card’s DP port. A good one gets the C1 to 4K120 at full RGB, so the subsampling question goes away on Windows and Linux alike (VRR through those adapters is hit or miss, and cheap ones top out at 60Hz, so check that it specifically lists 4K120).

Installer: writing the ISO to a USB stick is much more reliable than a DVD, and checking the ISO checksum first rules out a bad download.

If you’d rather keep Vikunja as the backend and web UI, it has a CalDAV endpoint, so you can point DAVx5 at it and use Tasks.org or jtx Board on Android for the reminders themselves. That gets you native Android notifications without email, and you keep the web interface for planning. Vikunja’s CalDAV side is less mature than its web UI, though, so test whether due dates and reminders come across the way you expect before moving everything over.

For notifications that aren’t tied to a task app (say, “remind me when X happens” from a script or Home Assistant), ntfy is the simplest self-hosted push to Android, as mentioned above.

Nice find. One thing to check before buying parts: the README says it works with line-level sources through a USB audio adapter. Most turntables output phono level, so unless yours has a built-in preamp (look for a PHONO/LINE switch on the back), you’ll need a phono preamp between the deck and the USB adapter. Without it the signal is very quiet and has no RIAA equalisation, so it sounds thin.

Also, AirPlay buffers for a couple of seconds, which is fine for listening, but you’ll notice the delay if you’re standing next to the speakers while dropping the needle. The automatic start/stop on signal detection is the clever part for a turntable.