Not sure. It’s a moot point though as a USB2.0 port is insufficient. It has to be USB3.0, preferably 3.2.

6GHz is not globally legal. That part of the spectrum is used for other stuff, too, not just wifi. Unless software (and in some cases hardware) can verify in some way that they are in a region where that spectrum is allowed to be used, they won’t put out a single signal in that range. Phones and laptops often check whether other 6GHz devices are around. If they are, they will usually allow you to at least connect to 6GHz networks, simply assuming that if devices that create such networks are nearby, then they must be legal wherever you are.

But the dongle CREATES the 6Ghz network. That’s why it needs to be extra sure. That is also why the warning on the Arch wiki page I linked about ABSOLUTELY NOT setting your region to anything other than what it actually is, is so serious.

I’ve never seen it draw anything close to 45W even in play+charging scenarios. It does momentarily go over 30W at times, but you really don’t need much to keep it going, and charge at the same time.

With a 65W 20 000mAh bank in my pocket 4-5 hours seems to be about what I get.

I’m very happy with the small internal battery, as I how light the HMD itself is, is a key feature for me.

Same experience.

I did get a 65W bank, but only because it’d be useful for charging my laptop and Deck as well as the Frame. By my math, even 20W should be sufficient to keep playing, if not charge the Frame.

There is a caveat though, PD voltage profiles mean that any two devices may not transfer the maximum theoretically possible wattage between them, depending on how their modes line up.

For example, a PB that is rated to do 30W, may not achieve that on the Frame, if it lacks a 15V mode. (Which is what the Frame and Deck seem to prefer.) You also need a suitable cable to use some of the modes at higher amperages.