It sounds like hip fire exclusive is what you want, but you said you already tried it. Is it not working correctly, or am I misunderstanding what you’re trying to do?

A lot of stick drift is actually caused by debris or sticky residue in the thumbstick housing, I’ve fixed stick drift on a lot my personal controllers just by spraying some plastic-safe electric cleaner spray in around the drifting stick.

That said, I did replace the sticks on my OLED deck because the capacitive pad came off. I used a set of Gulikit Hall Effect sticks, and they’ve worked pretty well.

I have heard that some of their older stick designs had issues like square dead zones, not sure if that’s still an issue. I know they improved their LCD stick designs so that you no longer have to solder anything or buy different products depending on if you have type A or type B sticks.

Do not plug the dongle directly into your motherboard USB ports. It REALLY does not like the noisy RF of the motherboard. If possibly, use a USB extension cable to let it sit a bit away from the PC.

Does this apply to all motherboard USB ports or just USB 3 ports?

USB 3 ports are well known to cause interference with wireless devices.

Yeah different chargers/battery packs will have different supported voltage/amp outputs. These are required to be listed on the charger/battery, usually in fine print. Also, 15v/3A is a standard combination though, and is required to be present in any official USB-C device that covers 45w or more.

So if your 100w brick can’t do 15v, it either means that it’s not an official USB-C certified charger (lots of cheap online chargers aren’t official and break USB-C spec), or that the power negotiation is failing (due to damaged cord/dirty connector/etc) and it’s falling back on 5v as a minimum output to be safe.

I believe they released a patch today to add Linux support to Minecraft Dungeons 2.